2014 Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru

(with an average age of 55 years, these vines produced 35 hectoliters per hectare in 2014): Ripe but tight nose hints at white peach, citrus fruits, flowers, rock and clove muted by sulfur, plus a touch of lichee. Very rich and thick, with the distinct creamy intensity of old vines, but not at all exotic in spite of the noteworthy sweetness to its stone and citrus fruit flavors. This wine really spreads out to saturate the palate on the long aftertaste, which features a lingering note of sweet macadamia nut.

The 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Caillerets is taut, stony and recalcitrant on the nose, and only reluctantly unfurls with wet limestone/sea cave scents. The palate is very crisp and taut, fine mineralité here with a delicate, leesy element surfacing and fanning out towards the finish, with just a hint of spice -- a memento on the aftertaste. This is very fine.

(20% new oak): Pale yellow. Slightly reduced aroma of lemon curd. Very rich and very dry, offering terrific breadth to the flavors of white peach, lemon and crushed rocks. Serious mineral-driven acidity extends the slightly phenolic finish of this youthfully austere wine. ( Chef de Cave Brian Sieve opened a bottle of the 2012 at the end of our tasting and this outstanding, extract-rich wine was evolving very slowly. Its very ripe flavors of yellow peach and lemon curd were framed and extended by bright minerality and it probably needs another six or seven years of bottle aging to approach maturity. I'll stick with my original score of 93+.)