2009 Volnay Mitans

The 2009 Volnay Mitans wafts from the glass with sweet scents of mint, dried flowers, tobacco and red cherries. It possesses marvelous depth in a weightless style informed from the use of 100% whole clusters. The 2009 can be enjoyed today or cellared. It is arguably the 2009 that has come together the most over the last six months. This is a great effort from Etienne de Montille. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029+. Etienne de Montille’s 2009 reds have developed beautifully since I last tasted them about six months ago. De Montille was among the very first growers to harvest in 2009. At the outset de Montille’s 2009s were a bit awkward, but today they have come together better than I expected. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

(vinified with 100% whole clusters): Medium red. Superripe, high-toned aromas of red fruits, black cherry, dark chocolate and underbrush; smells deep! Sweet, lush and fine-grained in the mouth, with a saline quality complicating the soil-driven red fruit flavors. Densely packed, seamless and very successful.

The 2009 Volnay Les Mitans presents a more authoritative personality than the Champans. Dark fruit, sweet herbs, minerals and crushed flowers are some of the nuances that emerge from this textured Burgundy. This has an element of roundness and gravitas I find especially appealing mixed with sweet floral notes on the finish. The Mitans was made with 100% whole clusters.