1990 Volnay Champans

The opaque dark ruby/purple color of the 1990 Volnay-Champans is followed by enticing aromas of black-cherries, damp earth, and spices. In the mouth, it is deep and brutally tannic, but there is enough sweetness and weight to suggest that this should become an outstanding wine in 12-15 years. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2030. I have done something with Montille's 1990s that I rarely do - give them the benefit of the doubt. This domaine's style of winemaking produces such tannic, high acid, backward wines that a minimum of 10 years cellaring is required. Based on the 1978s and 1980s that I own, you may have to wait 15 or more years for Montille's 1990s to shed their cloak of tannin and acidic shrillness. That being said, all of these wines are loaded. In terms of extraction and concentration, they possess the requisite depth to balance out their high acidity and hard tannins - I think. I am tempted to draw an analogy between the red burgundies of Hubert de Montille and the Brunello di Montalcinos of Biondi-Santi. They are wines that require 10-20 years of cellaring and can last another 20-30 years, but the underlying question is how much pleasure do they ultimately provide? I would love to know how many readers have had the experience of tasting fully mature vintages of Montille's Pommards or Volnays? Now that I have adequately warned buyers about these wines, what do they taste like? A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin - various importers.