1995 Sori San Lorenzo

1995 tends to be a good rather than great vintage in Piedmont, but Gaja's sensational 1995s are among the stars of the vintage. This wine possesses extremely saturated dark ruby/purple colors, almost atypical for Nebbiolo. The 1995 Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo offers tell-tale cigar tobacco, spice box, and cedar with black currant and cherry fruit in the background. The new oak plays a subtle role. Structured and noticeably tannic, this is a dense wine with surprising levels of glycerin, a saturated plum color, and intriguing flavors of black fruits, soy, and cedar. Although accessible, it needs more bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2016. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907

1995 tends to be a good rather than great vintage in Piedmont, but Gaja's sensational 1995s are among the stars of the vintage. This wine possesses extremely saturated dark ruby/purple colors, almost atypical for Nebbiolo. The 1995 Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo offers tell-tale cigar tobacco, spice box, and cedar with black currant and cherry fruit in the background. The new oak plays a subtle role. Structured and noticeably tannic, this is a dense wine with surprising levels of glycerin, a saturated plum color, and intriguing flavors of black fruits, soy, and cedar. Although accessible, it needs more bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2016. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907 Aug 1999, www.robertparker.com

Very reticent, somewhat claret-like nose hints at blueberry, plum syrup and dried flowers. The fattest and fullest of these '95, but also the most backward. Has a powerful tannic structure but finishes with strong, sweet dark berry, mocha and oak flavors. This really blossomed with aeration and should do well in the cellar. This wine and the Costa Russi are two of just five 1995 Barbarescos to receive three glasses from Gambero Rosso's Vini d'Italia 1999.