1982 Le Montrachet

How intriguing it is to taste the 1982 Montrachet, especially in this context, as it is so different in style from the other wines that precede it in the tasting. Now nicely mellowed and at its peak, the 1982 is gentle and caressing from start to finish. The flavors remain quite fresh for a 32 year-old wine. Slight elements of reduction are part of the wine’s fabric, but aren’t overpowering. All things considered, the 1982, from a vintage with very high yields, has stood the test of time quite well, even if it lacks the resonance of the best years and falls a bit short of being truly viscerally thrilling. I don’t see much upside from cellaring bottles further, although the 1982 has enough balance to continue to drink well for at least another handful of years.

Most 1982 white Burgundies have long been in decline, thus this was a very strong showing for the extremely unctuous, honeyed, high alcohol 1982 Montrachet from Romanee-Conti. Light golden in color, it still possessed gorgeously thick and succulent layers of buttery, popcorn-like fruit. Extremely potent, this is a powerful, slightly fragile style of Montrachet that should drink well for another 10-15 years. The notes for this wine are taken from the description of Series I of the 1995 tasting conducted in Munich by Helga and Hardy Rodenstock. Many years after the tasting from which this note derives allegations were made concerning the authenticity of old and rare bottles of wine sold by Hardy Rodenstock to collectors around the world. The matter has been the subject of numerous articles, litigation and at least one book. Mr. Parker believes that the wines served to him at this tasting were authentic so this note and the others from that specific tasting continue to be posted on eRobertParker.com.