1995 Domaine Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru
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Not to be outdone, the 1995 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru from Domaine Vincent Dauvissat ranks as one of the greatest mature bottles that I have encountered from this esteemed producer. It is blessed with a fabulous bouquet, featuring fresh earth, cockle shells and just a hint of menthol. It’s one of those aromatics that you could nose all evening; it’s almost ineffably complex. The palate matches the brilliant aromatics with astonishing spiciness and profound depth. This Les Clos is like a heavyweight boxer entering the ring and flooring his opponent with balletic grace. Wow.
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
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Full yellow with hint of copper. Exotic if reticent aromas of redcurrant, orange, toasted bread, grilled almond, smoke and stone; not especially expressive but somehow conveys an element of delicacy. Then quite densely packed but juicy and energetic, with an impression of solidity leavened by strong minerality and saline soil tones. Just a hint of sucrosité to give this wine lovely balance. Finishes dusty, tactile and long, with noteworthy energy. The fruit was just about to be affected by noble rot when he picked it, said Dauvissat, who added that it came in with "normal" acidity. An excellent showing. (13% alcohol; 4.5 g/l acidity)
Dauvissat’s 1995 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is a stunning wine, quite deep in color, and the bouquet shimmers with energy; scents of white peach, acacia honey and baked bread, perhaps sourdough, burst from the glass with astonishing clarity. The palate is beautifully poised and feels tensile after 23 years. There is a sense of weightlessness to this Les Clos and yet it delivers absolutely everything you could desire from mature Chablis, so saline and focused on the finish that your senses wonder what hit them. Magnificent.
Collector Thomas De Waen says he picked this up at auction for €8 a bottle. Very deep gold. Nutty nose. Rich at the start and then dry on the end. Maybe not the fruitiest but nice evolution. Finishes just a little suddenly but it’s wonderfully opulent the other way. Rich on the end too. (JR)