1999 Barolo

Mascarello’s 1999 Barolo is sinewy, powerful and intense, with bright, salivating acidity and tons of persistence. Hints of leather, smoke, tobacco and licorice open up gradually, but the 1999 remains tightly wound and in need of further cellaring or considerable aeration to offer its best drinking. I have seen some bottle variation of late, but the 1999 remains one of the better vintages of the 1990s here.

One of my favorite wines of the evening, the 1999 Barolo bristles with energy and classic austerity (in a good way) that are such signatures of this epic vintage. Laser-like in its focus, with bright flavors and bracing tannins, the 1999 is a textbook example of what traditionally-made Barolo in an important, structured vintage is all about. With air, the 1999 drinks well now, but it will continue to reward those lucky enough to own it for another two decades or more.

Bartolo Mascarello's 1999 Barolo is all about finesse. Ripe, silky tannins fold into an expressive core of sweet red cherries, flowers, leather, cinnamon and mint, but it is the wine's textural balance that stands out most. The tannins are already quite soft, yet the flavors retain gorgeous freshness, which means the 1999 is in a great spot right now to deliver maximum pleasure. I imagine the 1999 will drink well for many years to come, but it is also drop-dead gorgeous right now. Readers who own the 1999 are going to be thrilled. This is a fabulous bottle of the 1999, perhaps the best I have ever tasted.