2017 Auxey Duresses Climat du Val

Somewhat more structured and reserved than the outgoing Duresses, the 2017 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Climat du Val unwinds in the glass with aromas of smoky berry fruit, plums, loamy soil and spice. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a satiny attack, good depth at the core and enough fleshy fruit to largely conceal its chassis of fine but chalky structuring tannin. This will merit a few years' bottle age.