2007 Comtésse Bernard de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux 1er Cru

Bottled the day I tasted it, but showing no apparent ill-effects, the Cherisey 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux smells alluringly of linden flower, honeysuckle, and fresh lime. Its creaminess and richness are complimented by vanilla from (40% new) barrel but harmoniously juxtaposed with fresh citrus juiciness. Citrus zest and chalk add to the sense of cut and to a long, shimmering interchange of fruit, flower, and mineral elements in the buoyant finish of this well-concentrated Puligny that promises to be worth following for at least 5-6 years. For details on this fascinating, small, quality-conscious estate and its stony, high-elevation vineyards, readers are encouraged to consult my coverage in issue 180. Given the stable, low pH and the health of his fruit, Laurent Martelet says he felt confident in waiting until September 10 to being harvesting, thus taking into account higher alcohol (in the 13.75-14% range). His recently-expanded facilities in Blagny, incidentally, give him his own bottling line and space for completely independent elevage of reds and whites and first- and second-year wines. When one compares these wines with their 2004 counterparts, Martelet points out, the latter often suffer from a slightly vegetal cast. Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; also (under the “Martelet de Cherisey” label) a Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70