1988 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis

Dark red. One of the evening's great successes, the 1988 Cannubi Boschis offers an exquisite balance between its evolved aromas of licorice, tar, spices and cocoa and the youthfulness it shows on the palate, where delicate and highly nuanced stewed prune and plum flavors coat the palate with notable vibrancy and freshness. Of the four wines in this flight it is the most expressive Barolo for drinking today and over the next five or so years, and this bottle was pure magic.

Medium translucent ruby with orange tones. The medium-bodied 1988 explodes from the glass with a potent, brooding nose of smoke, tar, leather, cocoa and tobacco. It is soft on the palate, with ethereal, perfumed notes of stewed prunes and dried cherries with softened, dryish tannins that recall a traditionally styled wine, and excellent length. Although the 1988 doesn't have the delicateness of the 1989 or the sheer concentration of the 1990 it is fully mature, and a superb choice for drinking now and over the next 3-5 years.

Sandrone is one of the finest producers of Barolo. Fortunately, I still have some bottles of his spectacular 1982 and 1985 in my cellar. The 1988 Cannubi Boschis promises to rival his 1985, but will it be as stunning as his 1982? Traditionally styled, the 1988 is unbelievably intense, with a super nose of damp earth and black fruits. There is sensational chewy, ripe, opulent fruit, softer tannins than many producers appear to have obtained, and a massively long, heady finish. Approachable now, this wine should hit its peak of maturity in 3-4 years and last for up to 15 . Wow! Importer: a Marc de Grazia Selection, Michael Skurnick Wines, Westbury, NY.