1996 Volnay Clos des Chenes

Displaying a dark purple color and super-ripe plummy aromas, the Volnay Clos des Chenes is full-bodied, lively, rich, thickly-textured, and filled with blackberries, cassis, and earth tones. This wine is broad, yet vivacious with high acidity yet dense fruit. Its persistent and cherry-laced finish reveals plenty of supple and ripe tannins. Drink this wine over the near term while the acidity provides freshness and the admirable fruit compensates for it. With extended cellaring the acid may overpower the fruit. Projected maturity: now-2003. Vincent Bitouzet crafted marvelous 1996s, capturing this vintage's succulent fruit. Unlike most vignerons with whom I spoke, Bitouzet reported that his wines' malos took place normally, and were not retarded. He did not heat the cellars or use malo-inducing artificial yeasts, attributing the rapid malo-lactic fermentation to the fact that little sulphur was used during vinification. Importer: Neil Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; Tel (800) 910-1990.