2001 Barolo Riserva Voghera Brea

The estate’s 2001 Barolo Riserva Voghera-Brea is surprisingly open for a Serralunga Barolo in this vintage. Made in a sweet, ethereal style, this medium-bodied wine presents a lovely purity and sweetness in its stewed prunes, plums, leather, scorched earth and coffee beans. Judging by the lack of intensity in color as well as its relatively advanced aromas and flavors, this is not likely to be an extremely long-lived wine, but it is delicious today. The flavor profile is almost that of a more traditionally-made Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Azelia remains a great source for relatively well-priced Barolos. In particular, the San Rocco, from a vineyard in Serralunga, is often one of the region’s top bottlings as it is again in 2003. Proprietor Luigi Scavino has a new Barolo this year, made from the Margheria vineyard, also in Serrlaunga. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

From 70 year-old vines. Second vintage. Under the previous owners this wine was not bottled as a separate cru by the old owners of the plot. Low-key nose. Rich and broad on the palate. Very dry and savoury. Correct but not winning. A bit too dry and austere for me. (JR)