2012 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champgains 1er Cru

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champ Gain is very closed and inexpressive on the nose despite rigorous coaxing. The palate has a fresh, citrus and lemongrass-tinged entry. To draw a positive, it is endowed with more body than the Maltroie but ditto; it seems to lack the nervosite and persistency that identifies this domaine’s wines. Pleasant enough, but it is missing some personality. As an admirer of Michel Niellon wines, especially after a divine Chevalier-Montrachet 1986 earlier this year, it is with heavy heart that I have to report that this appears to be one producer unbalanced and compromised by the inclemency of 2012. Hail severely damaged several of their prime vineyards. Batard-Montrachet was reduced down to a nub, while propitious premier crus the calibre of “Chenevottes” was akin to a child being pushed off their bicycle. In Burgundy, I am afraid there are no stabilizers. Still, on September 19 they harvested what they could and bottled everything, including their Chevalier-Montrachet, at the beginning of September. Michel’s son-in-law Michel Coutoux and grandson Mathieu took me through these wines, which seemed to lack the vigor and precision that I found elsewhere and within the domaine’s own wines in previous vintages. I am sure they will be back on form next year. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (707) 299-2600