2005 Volnay Clos d'Audignac

The iron-rich and oddly north-facing but sheltered source of the 2005 Volnay Clos des Audignac – just below the domaine – is being partially replanted to replace the vines Gerard Potel planted in 1966. A beefy, meaty personality (Landanger says the iron makes this taste more Pommard-like) with low toned black fruits, stewed rhubarb and black pepper and mocha-coffee inflections, this fills the palate impressively, and finishes with a continued sense of density, flavors of black pepper and singed meat, but with rather obvious tannins, and the juiciness of fruit seeming a bit clipped – presumably under the influence of its recent bottling. Certainly this is one to revisit soon and quite possibly worth some years in one’s cellar. (Landanger chose to show this last among his Volnays because, he says, it was showing the best from barrel.) Also recommended: 2005 Volnay Caillerets ($104.00; 86+?). In the decade since the ambitious and conscientious Patrick Landanger (who just bought an estate in the Douro, whence he was headed the Sunday we met) purchased Pousse d’Or, he has expanded the holdings to include parcels in Corton and Puligny Caillerets, and made huge investments in the vineyards and cellar. Not surprisingly given nature’s role, the 2005s – which he called unproblematic in every respect – look to set new quality standards for his tenure. Landanger says he was very sparing with punch-downs this year and entirely eschews pump-overs because he never pumps (and thus doesn’t filter either). The wines had just been bottled, and a couple of them appeared to be laboring under the effects of this (or at least of the sulfur administered beforehand). Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Good bright ruby-red. Sweet dark cherry, mocha and chocolate on the nose. Fat and broad, but less sweet than the Bousse d'Or; concentrated but a bit youthfully disjointed. There's good fat, though, and ripe, dusty tannins. Hard to assess today.