1989 Barolo Cannubi

The 1989 Barolo Cannubi takes time to open up in the glass. Plums, prunes, leather and menthol are some of the nuances that gradually emerge from this reluctant, reticent wine. Elements of austerity remain, particularly in the tannins, but the wine has more than enough personality to compensate for those small shortcomings. The finish seems to last forever but the fruit is fading, so I suggest drinking this bottling over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Brezza is a traditional producer that inexplicably appears to have flown under the radar for a number of years, despite having released some beautiful Barolos over the last few decades.