2022 Chablis Les Clos
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A cuvée I would never bet against, Vincent Dauvissat’s 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is generously structured and leaps from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring notes of white peach, beeswax and lemon oil blending with marine flavors. Multidimensional and concentrated, it is supported by racy acidity and concludes with a long, chalky finish. At present, it is more fruit-forward and muscular than Les Preuses but not at the expense of the tension and chalky extract one expects from it. Which will ultimately prevail is open to interpretation, so at this early stage, I'll refrain from premature coronation.
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Altre recensioni e punteggi
(from 3 different parcels of 50+ year old vines that total 1.0 ha). This ripe effort displays an abundance of classic Chablis aromas of smoky mineral reduction, citrus peel, oyster shell and acacia blossom as well as just the vaguest hint of the exotic. There is terrific punch and a taut muscularity to the more mineral-driven middleweight plus flavors that exhibit focused power on the impressively long and well-balanced finale. This is the densest wine in the range in 2022 and a wine that should age accordingly. In a word, brilliant.
The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a wonderful bouquet, perhaps more mineral driven than Les Preuses, going up a gear since I tasted it from barrel last year. The palate is very well balanced with a seductive praline tinged entry, a killer line of acidity and a tender but sustained finish that is just very Les Clos. Wonderful from start to finish and perhaps it will drink earlier?
Tatami straw, aniseed, Asian pear, pear granita and the barest hints of stone fruit. Yet the mid-weighed palate is taut, salty and immensely refined, packing a power punch to the long finish. A tour de force for the vintage, without the stony reticence of Les Preuses. Salty phenolics, chewy and nourishing, bode well for the future. Best after 2029.