2011 Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes

The bouquet on the 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chenevottes lies in stark contrast to the Ancegnieres: much more strict and linear, more Puligny in style with orange blossom and a sprig of lemon thyme. And I prefer the palate, which has superb balance and focus: holding everything back on the entry before motoring toward a vibrant, white peach, nectarine and pear-driven finish. It does not possess enormous persistency, but that does not really detract from a great 2011 white Burgundy. Following last issue’s “amuse bouche,” I could not miss an opportunity to visit Pierre-Yves at his winery in the village of Chassagne to take a look at his 2011s. “I like the 2011s because they give a lot of pleasure when they are young,” he said to me. “But I think they could age very well. The wines are on the ripe side – a bit like 2001 or maybe 2002. But I think it is a complete vintage. Personally, I prefer 2010 which is more on the mineral side, but the 2011s appeal to a wider audience, and in a way, bring people to Burgundy. When the customers come to the estate, they seem to have never heard about the 2011 vintage and so they do not know what to expect. But when they taste them they were quite easy to sell.” Pierre-Yves 2011s do not disappoint, mostly imbued with the delineation and poise we have come to expect from this top-tier producer who demonstrates that you do not necessarily have to own all your vines to create exceptional wines. We briefly discussed his move away from new oak and he admitted that perhaps during his initial vintages he was trying to impress. That is only natural. He has retreated from the cooperage to employ a minimal amount of new wood and things are about to change again. He had just taken delivery of two 11-hectolitre wooden troconic tanks that he will trial with the 2013 vintage, probably on one of the St. Aubin wines such as En Remilly. I cannot wait to taste the results. The Chassagne-Montrachets underwent a longer elevage than the St. Aubins and were bottled two months prior to my visit in July 2013. Importer: Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 343-4054

Very calcaire and pebbly. Bottom of the hill. On the Puligny side. Light soils. Pale gold. Quite sweet and expressive. Racy and sumptuous – already gorgeous! So open and rich and yet precise. (JR)