2004 Barolo Pianpolvere Soprano Riserva

Admittedly I have some doubts about the 2004 Barolo Riserva Pianpolvere Soprano. In my opinion, Pianpolvere is one of the great vineyards not in Bussia or Monforte, but in all of Italy. Proprietor Rodolfo Migliorini appears to still be fine-tuning his approach here. The 2004 reveals intense, silky fruit, but is ultimately completely overwhelmed by the 100% new French oak barrels. The oak not only marks the aromas and flavors, but also gives he wine some early signs of oxidation. I still feel this bottling could be - and should be - one of the truly legendary Barolos, so my expecations are and will remain high for future releases.

Admittedly I have some doubts about the 2004 Barolo Riserva Pianpolvere Soprano. In my opinion, Pianpolvere is one of the great vineyards not in Bussia or Monforte, but in all of Italy. Proprietor Rodolfo Migliorini appears to still be fine-tuning his approach here. The 2004 reveals intense, silky fruit, but is ultimately completely overwhelmed by the 100% new French oak barrels. The oak not only marks the aromas and flavors, but also gives the wine some early signs of oxidation. I still feel this bottling could be – and should be – one of the truly legendary Barolos, so my expectations are and will remain high for future releases. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095

(bottled in July of 2009 after spending four years in barriques and one year in large casks) Good medium red. Musky red fruits, gunpowder, dried flowers, nuts, pungent herbs and underbrush on the multidimensional nose. Wonderfully silky and suave but with plenty of definition, boasting superb subtle complexity to its flavors of fruits, flowers and camphor. Not a hugely sweet style but builds impressively on the very long and complex finish. Enologist Giuseppe Albertino notes that this wine is not as big as the 2006 rendition but it's finer. Valentino Migliorini, the owner of Rocche dei Manzoni who died in December of 2007, purchased this superbly placed Monforte d'Alba property (located next to Bussia) in 1999 from the family of Riccardo Fenocchio.