2023 Batard Montrachet

3 barrels. Pale colour with a lime streak. Surprisingly peachy aromatics. Composed on the palate, in this richer style, possibly later picked, but it is rather lovely. Generous through the middle and then further out behind. Lingers very nicely on the palate.

Rich and buttery, with aromas of ripe apple, apricot and quince, accented with oak spice and floral notes. The texture is solid but retains admirable elegance, with moderate weight and enough acidity to bring the wine into a luxurious balance. The grapes are from a small 0.12ha parcel in Chassagne, near the border with Puligny; they are lightly crushed and fermented in cask (40% new), where it will stay over two winters.

The 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has another very tight and backward nose that doesn’t really grab you. The palate is medium-bodied with light malic fruit, orange pith, and light apricot notes on the finish. This is pretty, but I prefer some of Chartron’s best Premier Crus.