2011 Barolo Cannubi

The 2011 Barolo Cannubi represents the inaugural vintage of this new classic. Elio Altare lost his lease on the Brunate cru, but gained a 2,500-square-meter section of Cannubi (and Cannubi Valletta) in its place with 20-year-old vines. Elio says that the two vineyards are actually very similar with comparable exposures and sandy soil types. To my palate, however, this wine tasted riper and more evolved than the Brunate. It reveals bold berry notes of strawberry, prune and flinty mineral nuances. The vintage heat is more evident in this Cannubi expression. The wine also shows soft lines and a yielding texture.

Mid ruby with orange tinges. Fine nose of sweet cherry and stones and with a hint of tea leaves. Elegant palate weight as you would expect of Cannubi. Long, complex fruit palate with perfectly judged oak, but firm, firm tannins that are not yet integrated. (WS)

A regal, aristocratic Barolo, Altare's 2011 Cannubi is just as fabulous today as it has been on the previous occasions I have tasted it. Ripe, silky tannins caress the palate as this lifted, precise Barolo shows off its multi-dimensional, exquisitely beautiful personality. Elio Altare won't divulge the exact location of the parcel he is sourcing fruit from. Much like a great spot for white truffles, this dirt clearly produces fruit of the highest level. The 2011 Cannubi is nearly impossible to resist today, but it will be even better once some of the baby fat drops off. This is one of the wines of the vintage.