2023 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres

Aromas of waxy citrus fruits, white flowers and buttery pastry introduce the 2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy wine with a good core of fruit, lively acids and a saline finish. This is another strong performance for this bottling. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier and his team have once again delivered a strong portfolio chez Jadot. Barnier stressed the importance of sorting and of vigilance during élevage, in particular where acid rot made an appearance, and he didn't hesitate to perform a saignée for cuvées where yields where high. As I've written before, in the cellar, foudres and 500-liter barrels now complement classic 228-liter pièces, a further evolution adapting to warmer, riper vintages. What's more, barrels are now used four rather than three times, meaning the percentage of new oak overall has fallen. A cold room also helps chill down any fruit that's too warm when it enters the winery, something especially important during the warm 2023 harvest. This vintage also marks the third vintage of organic conversion for the Domaine Louis Jadot and the Domaine Gagey.

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a candied patisserie- and vanilla-scented bouquet that is very seductive if a little oaky at the moment, though that should be absorbed with time. The palate is well balanced with a marine influence on the entry. A very saline Les Folatières with much more persistence on the finish compared to the Clos de la Garenne, this is promising (and also one of the only whites from Jadot around 14% abv). As tradition dictates, I undertook a comprehensive tasting of around 100 wines from Louis Jadot at the winery in Beaune, divided into two sessions for the white and red. Readers should note that I interviewed head winemaker Frédéric Barnier. "The wines are 0.5% higher in alcohol in 2023 than 2022, but with exactly the same level of acidity," he adds, after I had filmed the video. "Everything from our own vineyards was around 13.5% while some fruit that we bought was over 14%. Many of the vines resisted excessive sugar accumulation. We introduced foudres so there is less oxygen whilst using the same level of SO2. The challenge was the purity of both the reds and the whites. The fermentation was not so easy for the latter, and we stopped the malolactic a little earlier. There is 0.8gm/L malic acid on 2022 and 1.1gm/L in 2023. There is 0.5% more alcohol but with the same acidity as the 2022."

Cask sample. Light, stony citrus aroma. Dry, fresh, linear. It has mouth-watering freshness and a long finish thanks to all that tension. However, it lacks the intensity of a great vintage even with the nicely creamy finish. (JH)