2006 Barolo Ravera

The 2006 Barolo Ravera is darker, richer and more sensual than the Cascina Nuova. Layers of dark fruit intermingled with sweet balsamic nuances of cloves, pine and menthol flow effortlessly from the Ravera. The richness of the density matches the tannins step by step all the way through to a sensual, inviting finish that begs for another taste. This, too, is a superb effort. Ravera isn’t usually considered one of the very finest sites for Nebbiolo in Barolo, but in Cogno’s hands the fruit seems to reach an unprecedented level of finesse and elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Cogno is one of Piedmont’s undiscovered jewels. From top to bottom, the wines are consistently excellent to outstanding. In recent years, the estate has made great strides with their Baroli, but readers should not look past the entry-level wines, as they merit just as much attention. Readers will have to wait until 2011 for the 2006 Barolo Bricco Pernice and 2005 Barolo Vigna Elena. In the meantime, there is no shortage of fine bottles from this small, artisan grower. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Novello. Deep ruby, border, orange-tinged rim. Marmite and herbal opening. Herb liqueur palate and slightly burning finish.(WS)