NV Barolo Paiagallo Vertical (2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 – ex Rino Fontana)

2009 Barolo Paiagallo Not yet scored 2011 Barolo Paiagallo Canonica's 2011 Barolo Paiagallo is a real knockout. A wine that embodies the ripe exoticism that makes this vintage so compelling, the Paiagallo simply has it all. Sweet, perfumed aromatics open into a core of sumptuous fruit. Black cherry, plum, sage menthol and licorice notes abound. The Paiogallo captures the very best of the year with its intriguing power, inner sweetness and superb balance Readers who can find the 2011 should not hesitate, as it is terrific 94+Pts Antonio Galloni 2013 Barolo Paiagallo My initial thought was to focus on the 2013 vintage for this flight, but the Bartolo Mascarello is so young, I chose the 2012 instead. Canonica's 2013 Barolo Paiagallo is another very pretty translucent, classically built wine. Next to the other wines on the table, the Paiagallo comes across as a bit diffuse, with its aromatics, fruit and structure each in their own space and not woven together into a cohesive whole. The 2015 is still a delicious Barolo, but on this night, well, there are a lot of fabulous wines in the fasting 92Pts Antonio Galloni 2014 Barolo Paiagallo Not yet scored 2015 Barolo Paiagallo Not yet scored 2016 Barolo Paiagallo The 2016 Barolo Paiagallo offers a bit more depth than the Grinzane Cavour Barolo, but it, too, is pretty laid back in style. Sweet red cherry and plum fruit flavors are quite primary. Time in the glass brings out hints of spice, dried rose petal, mint and orange peel. It will be interesting to see if the 2016 gains body with time in battle. Today it is on the lighter side. Here, too, the 15.5% alcohol is not especially evident. 93Pts Antonio Galloni 2017 Barolo Paiagallo Canonica's 2017 Barolo Paiagallo is an exotic, utterly beguiling wine. Crushed red berry, blood orange, mint, rose petal and cinnamon give this effusive, mid weight Barolo its exotic, alluring personality. There's plenty of tannin lurking beneath. A few years of cellaring are advisable. This flamboyant, attractive Barolo is pretty impossible to resist now, though. Canonica works out of a tiny cellar in the historic center of Barolo that has just enough space for the barest essentials. The wines are always unique and idiosyncratic 94Pts Antonio Galloni 2018 Barolo Paiagallo The 2018 Barolo Paiagallo is laced with kirsch, sweet spice, new leather, menthol and rose petal. Exotic and super-ripe, the 2018 shows all the warmth of the year in its sweet fruit and pronounced alcohol, but avoids the angular contours that afflict so many wines. Even with all of that richness, the 2018 retains a good bit of freshness and energy. An opened bottle was still vibrant after a number of days whereas many other wines in the same tasting faded for faster. The 2018 is a very fine effort fram ane of Barolo's artisan growers, but readers have to be willing to accept elevated ripeness and alcohol. 93Pts Antonio Galloni 2019 Barolo Paiagallo The 2019 Barolo Paiagallo is a gorgeous wine from Giovanni Canonica. Kirsch, orange peel, cinnamon, cedar and new leather take on an exotic quality in a deep Barolo that marries a super-ripe profile with classic structure. The 2019 is a bit wild. Candied fruit lends a racy quality, but the tannins are decidedly forbidding. With Canonica every bottle is an adventure. For readers willing to take the ride, the 2019 has a ton to offer 96Pts Antonio Galloni 2020 Barolo Paiagallo Not yet scored