1996 Chassagne Montrachet Les Vides Bourses

Produced from extremely old vines, the Chassagne-Montrachet Vide Bourse reveals a malt-ball-scented nose and a tangy, vibrant, highly defined, and concentrated personality packed with pears, minerals, and toasty oak spices from the 40% new oak barrels it was aged in. This medium-to-full-bodied and silky-textured wine may ultimately deserve a higher score. It should be at its peak of maturity between 2002 and 2008. I was tremendously impressed with the quality of Morey's 1996s. While I generally had a slight preference for most vignerons' 1995s because of that vintage's extraordinary concentration, I feel that 1996's crisp, focused, and vibrant profile married admirably well with Morey's rich, plump, and ripe winemaking style. These are some of the finest wines I have tasted from this consistently first rate estate. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.