2021 Le Corton

In DRC terms, this is a relatively new wine, only the 13th vintage since they started leasing three parcels on the hill of Corton from the Prince de Mérode family: Les Renardes (0.5 ha), Le Clos du Roi (0.57 ha) and Les Bressandes (1.2 ha). Vines on average 50 years old. Overall yield viciously reduced by frost to just 5 hl/ha versus a more usual 20–30 hl/ha. Vinified together because they wanted to keep the old vines together and because they want an expression of Corton. Total volume produced, 105 cases of 12. Bottled 15 March 2023. Light to mid cherry red. More tangy than the Duvault-Blochet, more cranberry, a little darker fruited, still intensely fragrant but the red berries less sweet on first impression. But there is an unexpected hint of sweet vanilla in the aroma, giving way on the palate to a more sober elegance, extreme finesse and length, weightless strength. Makes me think of graphene: so fine but so strong. Tannins are perfectly judged, subtle but shapely. I could drink this now! (JH)

The 2021 Corton Grand Cru was reduced to four barrels, as yields are just 5hL/ha due to frost damage. Picking was September 26 and 27. As usual, it is a blend of three lieux-dits, as has been the way since debuting in 2009. Despite that stürm und drang, it has an attractive nose, dark berry fruit, a light sea spray influence, just a hint of freshly shucked oyster shell. Fine delineation, though obviously not as powerful as the previous two vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with lovely transparency here, wonderful definition and poise. Modest weight, maybe just a little lean towards the linear finish. It slips down the throat with ease. What the growing season denudes the Domaine's unlucky 13th Corton is length - it just disappears quickly on the aftertaste, something that I did not feel when I tasted this from barrel. But that said, there is an honesty about this Corton one can appreciate. 105 cases produced.