2007 Batard Montrachet

The Vincent & Sophie Morey 2007 Batard-Montrachet was picked together with that of Thomas Morey, and then separated at the press. At 13.7%, this is relatively high in alcohol for its vintage, though of course not unusual in a larger context. I mention this, though, because it lies behind this wine’s sense not just of amplitude and richness but of power, and because there is a hint of heat in the finish. Peach, musk, nut oils, and candied lemon on the nose lead to a low-toned palate impression of toasted nuts, roasted coffee, peach kernel, honey, and brown spices. This is certainly notably for its generosity and sheer richness, if not for finesse. I would plan on enjoying it within the next half dozen years. After inheriting his share of his father, Bernard Morey’s domaine (split with his brother Thomas, on whose wines I have reported separately in this issue), Vincent Morey and his wife Sophie (whose family are wine growers in Santenay) have now combined acreage and produced their first wines out of the Morey family facilities. They began harvesting Chardonnay already at the end of August, achieving potential alcohols that varied by as much as 1.5% over their five days of harvest, and chaptalizing up to a degree to arrive at 13-13.5%. He performed a light clarification and stirred the lees regularly to fatten-up the wines. As a group, this year’s collection was a bit obviously – at times obtrusively – marked by its oak (typically around 30-40% new), and richness seemed sometimes to have been bought at the price of refreshment, clarity, or site-distinctiveness. Like his brother, Vincent Morey reports that he is too short of cellar space to consider a barrel elevage that lasts longer the one year, but he supports the trend toward a longer, watchful stay in tank before the assembled wines are bottled. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191 and also imported by Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802