2007 Batard Montrachet

Candied lemon rind, blood orange, hazelnut, and brown spices on the nose of Jadot’s 2007 Batard-Montrachet segue into a dense, big-boned, subtly oily, chalky palate. There is more than enough citrus and sense of energy here to lend refreshment and lift to a wine of such density and breadth. I would plan to give this formidable Batard at least a couple of years in bottle and anticipate 8-10 or more of high performance. Jadot is one of those addresses where I confess to having feared that the combination of this vintage’s marked impression of acidity and relative leanness with Jacques Lardiere’s love of precision and merely selective use of malo-lactic fermentation might result in a dearth of sensual appeal. And he is the first to admit that a relatively high proportion of malic acidity was present in 2007, along with a danger of vegetal notes. But Lardiere took most of his 2007s all the way through malo, and my fears were at worst marginally realized. An overarching caveat is that these wines received higher dosages of sulphur (25 versus 15 grams) at bottling than those of other recent vintages, and will – Lardiere opines – take longer to shake off a certain pungency or hardening, but it did not find that alarming. As usual, I could not take time to taste all of Jadot’s many bottlings, which are less numerous this year, in any case, than in 2006. Incidentally, the first vintages of Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse under Jadot’s ownership and Lardiere’s direction – on which I shall report at a later time – are tremendously successful, preserving and even elevating critical elements of the personality that has long wines from that estate so memorable. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

(this wine comprises fruit from four properties, all in Puligny-Montrachet) Bright yellow. Complex, laid-back nose offers hints of citrus fruits, flowers, watercress, menthol and hazelnut. Suave, sweet and densely packed, with impressive concentration and considerable energy and nuance to the flavors of dried flowers and citrus fruits. This one finished its malolactic fermentation but shows the memory of malic acidity (like so many 2004 white Burgundies). The rising finish offers excellent length.

The Bâtard-Montrachet vineyard lies just below and parallel to Le Montrachet across the breadth of the slope. The largest of the five grands crus, its 11.7ha are divided between Puligny with 6ha, and Chassagne with 5.7ha. Bâtard-Montrachet's ownership is extremely piecemeal, the largest holding totalling 1.9ha. Traditional vinification in primarily new oak casks. Bright fruit – greengage? Very pure fruit aroma and oak in the background. Firm and serious on the palate, fine grained, almost savoury on the finish. Powerful and concentrated. (JH)