2010 Volnay Mitans

Good medium bright red. Aromas of redcurrant, tobacco and menthol, plus a suggestion of honey. Chewy and light on its feet, with good calcaire energy to the medicinal cherry and redcurrant flavors. Finishes with substantial granular tannins and very good length.

The 2010 Volnay Les Mitans is a model of understatement. Soft floral notes are woven together with sweet red berries and minerals in this classy, beautifully balanced Volnay. All of the elements are wonderfully balanced. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030. Yields were down 40% in 2010 at Lafarge. According to Frederic Lafarge, a superb September saved a year marked by damp, cold weather during the flowering and later throughout the summer. On the positive side, the low yields per plant allowed the grapes to achieve full phenolic ripeness. The 2010s were racked in mid-August 2011 and were aging on their fine lees when I tasted them from barrel in November 2011. As pretty as the 2010s are, today I have a slight preference for the 2009s. That said, the 2010s are terrific, and many of the wines are at or near the top of their respective peer groups. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

15% new oak as on all Lafarge premiers crus. Delicate and somehow tastes very precious. Fresh and lively – ethereal rather than heavy. I imagine it will take on flesh as it ages although it is already the final blend. (JR)