2015 Chablis Vaillons

Pale yellow. Reticent aromas of menthol, oatmeal and white truffle, with stone and citrus fruit notes in the deep background. Silky on entry, then quite firm in the middle, conveying an impression of strong soil character--and sound acidity--to its flavors of citrus fruits, minerals and oatmeal. This rather powerful wine finishes very long and youthful, a tad aggressive but not dry. Dauvissat told me he's already drinking this wine but I believe that it's destined for a slow and graceful evolution in bottle. Incidentally, at this point in our tasting, Dauvissat told me that he's still waiting on his 2000s, 2001s and 2002s.

The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaillons was more closed than the Séchets at this point in time, gradually revealing scents of white citrus fruit, nectarine, beeswax and flint, those aromas drawing you in with each swirl of the glass. The palate is very harmonious with a honeyed opening, very concentrated with dried honey, quince and a ravishing ginger and lemongrass-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. As usual, this is a flattering Vaillons but that would be to overlook the complexity and precision within.