2004 Barolo Runcot Riserva
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A bombshell Barolo, the 2004 Barolo Riserva Rüncot is superb. As always, the Rüncot stands apart from the other Barolos in the Grasso lineup, as it is aged in 100% new French oak, although 2004 was the first vintage in which Gianluca Grasso extended macerations and also time in barrel. Dark and mysterious in the glass, the Rüncot offers up a compelling array of dark red and black fruit, smoke, licorice and new leather, all with considerable freshness for a ten year-old Barolo. Even with all of its density, the 2004 is likely to remain a bit laid back relative to some previous vintages. (AG)
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
James Suckling
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Wonderful nose of crushed strawberries and custard with hints of cedar and cream. Full-bodied, velvety tannins and chewy tannins. Needs more time to soften. Juicy and savory. A big wine.
The 2004 Barolo Riserva Rüncot offers up an intriguing array of licorice, tobacco, spices, plums and prunes. The purity of the fruit here is beyond striking, and the wine shows great intensity as well as superb overall balance. The Rüncot saw 45 days of maceration on the skins and spent 36 months in 100% new French oak, all of which it has absorbed with impeccable elegance. I imagine the 2004 Rüncot will continue to gain weight in bottle, but even if it doesn't it is pretty special today. What a beautiful wine!
The 2004 Barolo Riserva Runcot offers up an intriguing array of licorice, tobacco, spices, plums and prunes. The purity of the fruit here is beyond striking, and the wine shows great intensity as well as superb overall balance. The Runcot saw 45 days of maceration on the skins and spent 36 months in 100% new French oak, all of which it has absorbed with impeccable elegance. I imagine the 2004 Runcot will continue to gain weight in bottle, but even if it doesn’t, it is pretty special today. What a beautiful wine! Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. I was deeply impressed with the Barolos I tasted this year from Elio and Gianluca Grasso. This is an important vintage for the Grasso family, and readers will want to get their hands on these exceptionally pure, beautiful wines before they disappear. In discussing their 2006s, many producers draw comparisons with their 1989s. This is one of the cases where such a comparison seems fitting. Speaking of which, readers may want to take a look at my notes on Grasso’s 1989s (and 1990s, too) in my “What About Now” feature in this issue. Grasso farms three vineyards in Monforte; Ginestra, Gavarini and Runcot, all of which have their own unique qualities. Harvest times can vary as much as 7-10 days from parcel to parcel. The Barolos are fermented using the traditional submerged cap method and see a full month of maceration on the skins. Malolactic fermentation is done in steel, and the wines are subsequently aged in cask. Despite all of their success, Elio, Marina, Gianluca and Francesca Grasso, along with their cellarmaster Enrico Marchisio, remain some of the most unassuming, humble and classy people readers will meet in Piedmont. Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Langdon Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (213) 483-5900; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; Admirality Beverage Co. Columbia Distributing Company, Portland, Oregon; tel. (503) 289-9600; Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159