2008 Barolo Cerretta

The 2008 Barolo Cerretta is all about textural depth and finesse. Layers of fruit caress the palate in this mid-weight, easygoing Barolo. Crushed flowers, tobacco and dried cherries linger on the pointed finish. This is a relatively soft, open, accessible Barolo for the year. In 2008 Cerretta was hit by hail, and that contributes to the wine's medium-bodied personality. Still, this is a very pretty wine for the year. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. The big news at this estate continues to be Davide Rosso's newly inherited parcels in Vigna Rionda. For now, Rosso has only bottled wines that he found made and aging in cask at the time of his uncle Tommaso Canale's death. Rosso subsequently replanted a major piece of the vineyard, but a parcel with the oldest vines remains in production. It will be fascinating to see what Davide Rosso does with one of the undisputed crown jewels in the world of wine. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

Just mid ruby with broad orange-tinged rim. Hints of chinotto [carbonated soft drink produced from the juice of the fruit of the myrtle-leaved orange tree] and dried cherry, but otherwise not expressing much. Very elegant palate weight, rashly followed by muscular tannin. Fresh, and needs to settle. Impressive. (WS)