2008 Barolo La Serra

Davide Rosso's 2008 Barolo La Serra has more depth and sheer power than the other two Baroli in this lineup. Dark cherries, incense, tobacco and smoke wrap around a juicy, expressive core of fruit as the wine opens up over time. The finish is beautiful in the way the intense tannins add notable tension and vibrancy to the soft, plush fruit. Another few years will only help the tannins integrate further. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. The big news at this estate continues to be Davide Rosso's newly inherited parcels in Vigna Rionda. For now, Rosso has only bottled wines that he found made and aging in cask at the time of his uncle Tommaso Canale's death. Rosso subsequently replanted a major piece of the vineyard, but a parcel with the oldest vines remains in production. It will be fascinating to see what Davide Rosso does with one of the undisputed crown jewels in the world of wine. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

Just mid ruby with broad orange rim. Still very compact, but with a heady, perfumed nose. Great, viscous mouthfeel. Big tannin, but quite irresistible. (WS)

Lots of colour development. Mid ruby with a rusty rim. Light but alluring, and growing, leaf-mould nose. Sappy fruit and then a suitably muscular framework. Certainly not plump but very correct with a dry finish. Attractive lift and life. (JR)