2014 Barolo

The 2014 Barolo is a very pretty wine, and one of the overachievers of the year. One of the reasons for that is because in 2014 Ceretto did not bottle a Brunate or Bricco Rocche. Far from the easygoing wine it usually is, the straight Barolo is tightly wound, austere and nervy, all qualities of this very unique growing season. Ceretto's 2014 could turn out to be a real surprise.

Ceretto's 2014 Barolo offers lovely depth and fleshiness for the year. Silky tannins and a translucent expression of fruit give the wine tons of appeal. Dried cherry, rose petal, cedar, cinnamon and tobacco are finely knit in this very pretty, polished entry-level Barolo from Ceretto – and the more it sits in the glass, the prettier it gets. In 2014, Alessandro Ceretto did not bottle his Barolos from Brunate or Bricco Rocche, as he did not feel those wines were fully expressive of site. Instead, they were blended into the straight Barolo.

Grapes came from Bricco Rocca and Brunate, which in normal years are bottled as separate crus, plus contracted grapes from La Morra and Serralunga d’Alba. Half selected, half indigenous yeast and 20-25 days on the skins including alcoholic fermentation. Aged in barriques for one year, of which 10% were new, followed by 24 months in large oak casks of 25 and 50 hl. Lustrous ruby with orange tinges. Exciting precision of red fruit with oatmeal notes. Vibrant red fruit and edgy chewy tannins. Still a little tight, but gorgeous balance and great freshness and tension. (WS)