2020 Massetino

The 2020 Massetino pours a rich ruby hue, with a perfume of crushed violets, ripe plum, lavender, and candied raspberry. It is full-bodied and has fresh acidity without any edginess. With notes of ripe red plum and pencil shavings, it reveals great length and an attractive flourish and lift of menthol. The tannin structure is youthful and ripe and will take several years to unwind to its full potential. Drink over the following 10-15 years. The adjacent sister property to Ornellaia, the Masseto estate in Bolgheri produces benchmark wines based on Merlot, with its first vintage in 1987. Their new winery, which debuted in 2018, was designed by architects Hikaru Mori and Maurizio Zito of the ZitoMori Studio, who named it “The Quarry.” It is an impressive design, with the exterior blending into the landscape, only to reveal its true grandeur upon entering the winery beneath. One feature of the new winery has been to move away from the use of stainless steel, which they found could contribute to reductive qualities. Instead, 20 to 25% of the wine is now fermented in concrete tanks, with the remainder in oak barrels. The concrete also takes on some of the qualities of barrel fermentation, without adding the additional flavors that barrels would contribute. The oldest vines are currently approaching 40 years old, and in newer vintages, Cabernet Franc they planted more recently has been making its way into the wines. My tasting took place at the winery with the estate’s new winemaker, Gaia Cinnirella, and Axel Heinz, who has moved into an overseer role as the estate director.

97% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc.  Deep, plump and seductive. The fruit is dark but not confected, offering a fragrant sweetness. Sumptuous yet with some crunch, it needs a year to settle as the finish lingers with a chalky depth. (TP)

Packed full of character, even if clearly on the ripe side - expect baked earth backed up by baked fruits, eucalyptus and butterscotch, layered with pencil lead, graphite, crushed stones, cut herbs. Full of flavour, generosity and slow build power. A confident Massetino with a moreish quality that's hard to resist. 70% new oak.