2020 Chevalier Montrachet La Cabotte

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru sports a lot of reduction on the nose, but there is a lot of "wine" underneath that. It's a bit off-putting at the moment, and it's a touch eggy due to the SO2. That seems to dissipate to a degree with aeration. The palate is concentrated with good depth, although the SO2 is defining this wine rather than the terroir or fruit profile at the moment. It is difficult to judge this. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

This chardonnay masterpiece is currently like a fully wound Breguet watch, but the extremely subtle nose of citrus, wild herbs and flowers is already breathtaking. Mind-blowing concentration, purity and precision on the generous but by no means massive palate. The really extraordinary thing is the intense crushed-stone minerality that's married to sensual creaminess on the mid-palate, then asserts itself ever more singularly at the finish, until it's completely overwhelming. From 2.33 hecatres of vineyards on all four terraces of this famous site. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru is brilliant, bursting with aromas of orange oil, nutmeg, crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and peach. Full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, it's layered and multidimensional, with striking depth and intensity, concluding with a long, resonant finish. It's a brilliant wine in the making.