2017 Barolo Monvigliero

Here is the most representative wine by Fratelli Alessandria. It has been in production since 1978, making it the oldest expression of this popular cru. The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero draws its fruit from the village of Verduno where this historic winery makes its home. Like most of these samples, I opened the bottle with generous lead time, and the wine opened beautifully, albeit slowly, as a result. This bodes well for the aging potential of this bottle. It shows delicate aromas of wild berry and rose, and there is an underlying mineral note that appears with delicate intensity in this vintage. This 2017 expression is, however, less floral and peppery than we have seen in the cooler vintages, and the alcohol content is stronger at 15%. Some 7,000 bottles were produced.

The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero marries the raciness of the year with the floral lift and elegance of this great Verduno site. More than anything, the 2017 is a Barolo of pure and total sensuality. Even so, there is more than enough tannin to allow the 2017 to drink well for many years to come. It is very clearly one of the wines of the vintage. The rich, substantial finish is a thing of real beauty.

Verduno. 24 days on the skins and 34 months aged in large oak cask. Cask sample. Lustrous ruby. Rather subdued but with hints of mineral-charged, cherry fruit and a hint of tobacco leaf. Lively, vibrant yet embryonic cherry and raspberry fruit supported by waves of powdery tannins. Great focus, freshness and vibrancy. (WS)