2008 Barolo Fossati

The 2008 Barolo Fossati is my personal favorite thanks to the stunning aromas that emanate from this wine. I find those mineral notes absolutely divine, they are chalky without being dusty and so finely etched and chiseled overall. They help pull the aromas straight up and out of the glass and are soon followed by more substantial notes of pressed blue flower, licorice, cola, tar and dried ginger. It offers a vertical aromatic delivery, in which each descriptor is pulled from the bottle like a chain of pearls, rather than a horizontal delivery in which all the perfumes hit you at once. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. Since taking over this historic estate a few years back, the vision of proprietor Oscar Farinetti (inventor of the luxury Eataly grocer/food court multinational) and his son Andrea has played out seamlessly, like a movie with a final message of hope and happiness. They pledged to maintain the signature house style that is rooted in extreme tradition, and they have indeed followed through on that promise. All the wines are aged in botte grande made with Slavonian oak and the vineyard team has embarked on more aggressive tactics for sustainable farming. The estate has 16 hectares, of which ten are planted to Nebbiolo, including specific vineyard sites in the Liste, Fossati and Cannubi crus. These wines show charm, liveliness and personality. They are like a long-lost relative who embraces you at a family reunion. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

A mesmerizing wine, the 2008 Barolo Fossati opens with hints of plum, black cherry, menthol, violets and licorice. There is an elusiveness to the Fossati that is marvelous to behold, as the wine seems to constantly change in the glass. Now that it is in bottle, the wine has shut down a bit, but its inner sweetness and perfume are still very much in evidence.