2018 Batard Montrachet

Fermented in 350-litre oak. The Puligny side of the grand cru. Two 350-litre casks. Less than last year because one part was not so good and they sold the fruit. The only wine of which there is less 2018 than 2017. 80-year-old vines. Picked 27 August! Bâtard likes dry warm summers. Barrel sample. Very slight hint of smoky reduction but nowhere near struck match. Both chalky and intensely citrus-fruited. Majestic and creamy. Another wine packed with fruit and richness. Deep and so tightly shaped by the freshness. Perfectly balanced. Fragrant and intense. Majestic already and will become more so. That gingery spice on the finish. (JH)

In much the same fashion as the Chenevottes, touches of smoke and matchstick characters are present on the softly exotic aromas of passion fruit, white peach, citrus and pretty floral nuances. The succulent and seductive yet powerful broad-shouldered flavors possess very good mid-palate density while exhibiting first-rate complexity on the firmly structured, long and serious finale. Patience definitely advised for this beauty.