2006 Barolo Gramolere

Truffles, wild cherries, menthol, spices and a host of other balsamic nuances emerge from the 2006 Barolo Gramolere. This is a decidedly masculine style of Barolo from Alessandria that stands apart from the straight Barolo and Monvigliero both of which tend towards a decidedly more refined, feminine expression of Nebbiolo. There is wonderful depth and spiciness to the fruit, while never abandoning the classic, firm structure of Barolo. Some of the aromas and flavors are just a touch advanced; suggesting the Gramolere won't be a super long term ager, but it should drink beautifully to age 20-25, perhaps longer.

Truffles, wild cherries, menthol, spices and a host of other balsamic nuances emerge from the 2006 Barolo Gramolere. This is a decidedly masculine style of Barolo from Alessandria that stands apart from the straight Barolo and Monvigliero both of which tend towards a decidedly more refined, feminine expression of Nebbiolo. There is wonderful depth and spiciness to the fruit, while never abandoning the classic, firm structure of Barolo. Some of the aromas and flavors are just a touch advanced; suggesting the Gramolere won’t be a super long-term ager, but it should drink beautifully to age 20-25, perhaps longer. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. This is a knock-out set of new releases from Fratelli Alessandria, one of Piedmont’s up and coming producers. Importer: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552

Monforte d'Alba. Deep ruby just starting to open up on the rim. Serious and pronounced chocolate. Sweet attack, with energetic acidity, but finish seems slightly monotonous. (WS)