2013 Brunello di Montalcino
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Cask sample 1: Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Still a little progress, but finer on the nose than the 2012. Subtle cherry and a hint of tea leaves. Proper Burgundian in style, think Marroneto but with added ripeness. Spectacular balance and ends on austere tannins. This just needs more time but is already exciting. Cask sample 2: A shade deeper. More slumbering and with a little more concentration on the nose than cask sample 1. Intense, ripe raspberry and oatmeal notes. Juicy and almost a little racy, and with firmer tannins than sample 1, and a touch bitter at this stage. Shares breed and elegance with no 1, even if the tannins are more upfront. Yet the length and elegance are impressive. (WS)
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Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
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A cult address for many Italian fine wine lovers, Cerbaiona is one of Montalcino’s top estates. The site has long been identified as special, but it was Diego Molinari who established its reputation. Today, Matthew Fioretti is at the helm, bringing the estate into the modern era.