2016 Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets

(this was fermented in a new barrel, then racked with its lees after the malo into a one-year-old barrique for another 11 months of aging to reduce the impact of the new oak): Pale yellow. Pear, citrus fruit and menthol aromas are currently muted by oak. Then far more expressive and nuanced on the palate, and one of the saltiest 2016s to this point, offering gripping yet fine-grained flavors of citrus zest, pear, menthol, white flowers and crushed-stone minerality. Finishes with a tactile impression of dry extract and terrific slowly building length. Showing exhilarating energy for the vintage, this beauty makes a strong argument for partially blocked malolactic fermentation.

The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru en Cailleret has a racy, chalky bouquet that seems to convey the terroir with more aplomb than other Chassagnes from Jadot. This is well defined and its place of origin really comes through. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, hints of orange zest and quince complement the spice/ginger notes toward the finish. Excellent.

Just a single Jadot barrel of this white wine this year, so it was very generous of Frédéric Barnier to allow us to taste it. The quality of the vineyard sings out in its richness and fresh, almondy grace, but it’s vivid, nuanced and structured, too. Jun 2017, Andrew Jefford, www.decanter.com