2009 Barolo Villero Riserva

It's almost a shock to taste the 2009 Barolo Riserva Villero after the 2013s, as it is quite soft and open. Part of that is the personality of the 2009 vintage, but the wine's is also four years older. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, spice, leather and a host of balsamic-infused notes wrap around the generous, inviting finish. Although the 2009 will be at its best with a few more years in bottle, opening it before that it won't be in vain, as the wine is quite approachable and expressive, even in the early going. The 2009 is sensual, beguiling and inviting today.

Quite vibrant ruby. Leaf mould and excitement on the nose and then great structure plus fruit weight on the palate. Marked acidity. Ambitious wine. (JR)

In a word, the 2009 Barolo Riserva Villero is magic. I'm not sure I understand how Luca Currado does it. With his wizard's wand, he achieves a level of purity and intensity that I have rarely ever seen in Barolo or any other Italian appellation for that matter. The wine is centered and balanced at its core, but its aromas and flavors are absolutely explosive at the same time. The bouquet delivers dark fruit, tobacco, white truffle, balsam herb and grilled rosemary. The tannins are structured with a vein of supple sweetness. This wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in large barrel and is left to develop on the fine lees without racking. It is largely made in reduction to establish that crunchy and firm quality you feel in the mouth. This special Riserva was not made in 2008. However, it was produced in 2007, 2006, 2004, 2001, 1997, 1996, 1990, 1989 and 1982. Luca is planning to make it in 2013, and that's great news for all. Aug 2017, www.robertparker.com