2015 Volnay Clos des Chenes

Thierry Glantenay's 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is superb, wafting from the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, elderberry, wood smoke and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, concentrated and complete, with a textural attack and fabulous depth and dimension, its tannins fine-grained and velvety, its finish long and intense. This benchmark Clos des Chênes was immensely promising from barrel, and though it has tightened up a little after bottling, all its huge potential is intact: the only missing ingredient is time.

30% new oak (his maximum). Two equal parcels: planted 1938 and 2000. 30-40% whole bunch. Mid blackish crimson. He puts it at the end of the tasting because of its richness. Dense and, yes, a bit chestnutty! Racy and rich. Very well balanced. Velvety texture but no heaviness. Purple in every way. Masses of clean ripe fruit but with lift too. Long. (JR)

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes was showing just a slight reduction on the nose, though it develops nicely in the glass, yielding raspberry coulis, cranberry, cola and light fennel scents with time. The palate is powerful on the entry with plenty of lightly spiced black fruit, tinged with earl grey and minerals, the latter becoming more conspicuous towards the finish. There is a subtle sour cherry edginess that lends this Volnay complexity and personality - it will be fascinating to revisit once in bottle. Dec 2016, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2018-2030