1988 Chianti Classico La Casuccia Gran Selezione

This producer turns out a relatively austere, tannic, tight-fisted style of Chianti that is not my favorite, but one has to admire the wines' purity and structure. The wines are more architectural than hedonistic. With that in mind, readers would be better off spending the $16 asked for the 1990 Chianti Classico than over twice that amount on the single vineyard wines, which are only negligibly better. The 1988 La Casuccia has 15% Merlot blended in, but you would never know that by its tightness, hardness, tough tannins, and astringent finish. The color is impressive and there is good underlying fruit, but again, this is a closed, austere style of Chianti that some readers may enjoy more than I did. Importer: Divino, Chicago, IL.