2011 Barbaresco Rabaja

Juts mid ruby with orange tinges. Brooding power on the nose with the merest hint of oak. More concentrated than the straight Barbaresco, and lots of tannins. Great precision and length, while the tannins demand more age. Real class. (WS)

The 2011 Barbaresco Rabajà is dark, bold and intense. Pomegranate, sweet red cherry, plum, licorice and rose petal notes are all pushed forward. There is no shortage of intensity, but less in the way of vineyard signatures. Some of that is of course the personality of the year. This is a very pretty wine. Slightly angular contours and a touch of volatile acidity are evident, but just to the degree where they add complexity. I especially like the way the 2011 develops with a bit of air. It will be interesting to see what happens in the future as Castello di Verduno redevelops their holdings in Rabajà, which lie right next to the vineyards of Bruno Rocca. Readers who can look past a few small imperfections will find a delightful, fruit-driven Barbaresco that can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring. I tasted the 2011 from half bottle, a format that, in my view, has few very uses.

The 2011 Barbaresco Rabaja is a generous and complete interpretation of Nebbiolo that ages in Slovenian oak for 20 months. Pretty spice layers and dark fruit are folded within the overall richness and texture of this bold Barbaresco. Its delivery is direct and upfront and the overall style is refreshingly genuine and frank. Drink: 2016-2024. Verduno is Barolo's most promising township with distinctive wines that boast spice and bright fruit. This year, I tasted the estate's Barbaresco, although it does offer a full line of wines, including a Barolo Monvigliero Riserva. In addition to its winemaking efforts, the estate includes one of the best restaurants in the region. I highly recommend that you book a table here on a sunny spring day under the giant cherry tree in the back yard. Various American importers, including: DVM Importing Company, www.dvmimports.com; Oliver McCrum, www.omwines.com; Eagle Eye, www.eagleeyebrand.com; C&G Wines, www.cgwines.com