2012 Barolo Bricco Rocche

Mid ruby with bright orange tinges. Beguiling spicy oak nose. The new oak is obvious, but is backed up by fresh fruit and chewy tannins. Elegant palate weight. Modernist. You could try to approach this now, but it deserves age. (WS)

The 2012 Barolo Bricco Rocche is a bit deeper and more layered than the Brunate, but it, too, comes across as understated, with limited depth, complexity and pedigree, especially considering the potential of this historic Castiglione Falletto site. Today, the Bricco Rocche looks to be an early maturing Barolo.

Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Really pretty nose of cherry and orange peel. Clear impact of oak but not the merciless, upfront vanilla kind. Lots of grainy tannins and then plenty of fresh fruit. Already hard to resist. Great, tactile, crunchy finish. (WS)