2011 Barolo Cannubi

The 2011 Barolo Cannubi shows impressive depth and balance despite the heat of the growing season. The Cannubi cru is usually one of the first to come to maturity and fruit in this vintage was picked earlier than average. These factors can downplay the natural complexity of the Nebbiolo grape. Luckily, this wine has emerged very much intact. The wine's dark appearance segues to plump aromas of blackberry and plum. The tannins deliver thicker texture, but there is a good amount of fruit density to smooth over the palate. Enthusiasts of this wine will notice that the name Vigneto Cannubi is now changed to Cannubi.

Deep ruby with narrow orange rim. Vigorous nose that is holding back a little. Mellow, round fruit that is pulled up by acidity. Bags of cherry that develop on the finish with grainy tannic grip. Looks innocent at first and then becomes vigorous. Wonderful, chewy, grainy tannins. Animating! (WS)

The 2011 Barolo Cannubi is quite dark in this vintage. Black cherry, plum, mocha, spice and new leather all take shape in the glass. Cannubi is a site that can suffer in warm, dry vintages, and that certainly seems to come through here. Today, Burlotto's Cannubi is a bit heavy and lacking the finesse of the very best wines in the range. Given the wine's track record I would give the 2011 at least a few years in bottle to see if the true pedigree of Cannubi can be coaxed out of the wine. A recent bottle of the 2008 was stellar. The Cannubi remains the most improved wine in the Burlotto range. As such, it continues to fly a bit under the radar, but that won't be the case forever. Within the context of recent vintages, the 2011 is an outstanding Cannubi, but not as strong as other previous editions.