2013 Puligny Montrachet

A blend of lieux-dits (5 ha in total): Derrière La Velle, Reuchaux, Corvées des Vignes, La Rousselle, Noyer Bret, Les Aubues, Les Tremblots. He'll add two new climats in 2014. High toned and racy. Lots of substance and lively lemon and honey. No obvious struck-match reduction. Just straightforward fruit with a bit of stoniness. (JR)

Raised in a judicious 10-12% new oak, the 2013 Puligny-Montrachet has a more reticent nose compared to the Chassagne premier crus at the moment. The palate is taut on the malic entry, with a pleasant twist of lemon. There is satisfactory weight in the mouth with a saline aftertaste that lingers long after the wine has departed. This is commendable wine, one that I think will be best consumed in its youth.

(Carillon owns five hectares of village Puligny: cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare in 2013): The smoky nose shows a flinty note of reduction. Round and ripe on the palate, with its sucrosite nicely counterpointed by sound acidity. Gently suave and full, displaying good stuffing to its yellow peach and spice flavors. Boasts more flavor authority than the village Chassagne. (Carillon's Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macharelles was going through an oxidative phase and was impossible to assess with confidence.)