2013 Puligny Montrachet Champ Canet

Healthy pale yellow. Dried and fresh apricot complicated by flowers and spices on the nose. Offers good punch and nervosité as well as an attractive sweetness. Began with a distinctly silky texture but also shows strong acidity and underlying mineral spine. This very promising wine shut down in the glass.

(the highest in potential alcohol along with the Combettes, at 13%; also finished with a relatively high 2.2 grams per liter residual sugar, while the rest of these 2013s are in the 1 to 1.2 range, according to Boudot): Yellow-straw. Sexy, complex nose melds peach, spices, vanilla, smoky lees, minerals and flowers. Fat, sweet yellow fruit flavors are nicely counterpointed by salty minerality. For such a smooth, voluminous wine, the long, slowly building finish is nicely dry. A quarter of this wine is from 90-year-old vines, said Boudot, noting that Champ-Canet is his largest premier cru in terms of surface, with Combettes number two.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet has a precise and more mineral-driven bouquet compared to its peers. There is just the right amount of aloofness here, but it keeps drawing you in. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, maybe some botrytis here and it shaves away some (but not all) of the precision on the finish. However, I appreciate the harmony and depth of this Puligny and it should age nicely over the next 10-12 years. Tasted May 2016. Nov 2016, www.robertparker.com