2008 Pommard Les Pezerolles

Vinified two-thirds vendange entier, De Montille’s 2008 Pommard Pezerolles brims with fresh, tart-edged red currant, strawberry, and red raspberry, allied to smoked meat and pungent herbs. Bright and finely-tannic, this lean though long Pezerolles delivers mouth-watering savor, but I would be inclined to plan on enjoying it over the next 6-8 years rather than anticipating long-term aging potential of the sort this bottling often exhibits. Etienne de Montille related having taken great pains in early September, 2008 to stave-off encroaching rot and promote ripeness, and felt that his rigorous leaf-pulling and crop-thinning – not to mention eventual triage – paid off sufficiently that he could vinify a substantial portion of the 2008 crop in his preferred manner, utilizing a high proportion of stems and whole clusters (100% in the case of this year’s grand crus and top premier crus). Those wines for which a point spread is indicated were all last tasted shortly before their early spring bottling as finished assemblages in tank – whence they had been racked at the end of 2009 because de Montille did not think their fruit density or lees quality would have supported longer barrel-elevage. (Despite my longstanding predilection for de Montille and his wines, I regret to report that time and circumstance conspired to keep me from tasting his 2007s.) Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

(100% vendange entier Medium red. Good floral, spicy lift to the redcurrant and smoke flavors. Delicate and nicely delineated, but with the sweetness of this set of wines. Redcurrant fruit is lifted by a peppery nuance. Finishes sweet and pliant, with supple tannins. Well-judged gentle vinification here.

Pale ruby. Light, slightly tough, coffee nose. Lightweight but fruity, sweet and flattering. Perhaps a little less pure than some other wines but it certainly offers pleasure. Some may find it too sweet. (JR)